Saturday 18 April 2015

Random Memory #1

I lived in Nigeria for many years, and the first place I called home was Kano, on the edge of the Sahara. I landed at Kano aerodrome in a BOAC aeroplane in December 1963. Kano aerodrome employed a bird-scarer, a man on a camel with a long trumpet who would amble to the end of the runway and tootle away hoping to scare off the vultures.

A family friend,James, was born a century too late. As my father says, "He should have been here with Lugard." James was an area manager for the Bank of British West Africa and instead of a Land-Rover he successfully put in a chit for three camels. He used to dress in Tuareg clothes and travel around northern Nigeria on his camels visiting the various bank branches. He also used to leave word with my father that he was "off into the blue" and would disappear for two months into the desert. James' Hausa name was Me Rakume, which translates as "Camel Man". His pidgin English name, as he wore a monocle, was "Window for Eye". Apparently he didn't like visitors so if anyone came into his compound he would stride onto the stoep and shout, "State your business!"

I don't remember much of Kano, but vaguely remember other towns in northern Nigeria: Maidugri, Kaduna, Sokoto. I was taken to a durbar where the Emir of Kano's guard of honour galloped up to him and reined in their horses in inches from his throne. The horsemen were wearing chain-mail vests, supposedly handed down from the Crusades. I later found out they were manufactured new in Wolverhampton.

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